Yes, I know I just wrote about cupcakes. But that was before I walked by Sweet Revenge, which could be described as the Gwen Stefani of bakeries. This sassy little shop serves the most adventurous cupcakes around, and I've already become addicted to two flavors. The cinnamony "Crimson and Cream" is a red velvet concoction that sports a dollop of tart cream cheese icing shot through with raspberry, and the "Dirty" is the deepest, darkest Valrhona chocolate cupcake you're likely to find. I wish I had the metabolism for all 20 flavors.
Sweet Revenge: 62 Carmine St., (212) 242-2240.
Friday, December 31, 2010
Thursday, December 30, 2010
Maialino
I remember visiting Maialino this past spring and being enamored of the fresh mozzarella and heirloom tomato salad. The simple but beautiful dish was served at room temperature for full flavor; chilling destroys the taste of tomatoes. I had also enjoyed the authentic carbonara - so many restaurants adulterate it with cream instead of letting the egg yolk create the sauce, but not Maialino.
So I thought I'd repeat my visit. Tonight, a friend and I scored a last-minute early reservation. The bread basket of spicy breadsticks, crusty sesame loaf and focaccia was devoured in about five minutes. Stracciatella, a sort of Italian egg drop soup, was rich and delicious. The salad misticanza was less appealing - a pile of plainly dressed arugula seemed to go on for miles and needed a bit of blue cheese or something.
Homemade tonnarelli cacio e pepe was wonderful - lots of black pepper and pungent pecorino coated the wavy noodles. My friend enjoyed the bombolotti, big, al dente pasta tubes with guanciale and tomato. But what really impressed me was my dessert - and the superlative service. I couldn't decide between the olive oil cake with vanilla bean mascarpone and the gianduja bread pudding. Our server debated the merits of both with me, and then hooked me up with the best of both worlds: a dish of vanilla mascarpone and the round bread pudding. The warm, buttery dessert was sprinkled with toasted hazelnuts and contained a surprise of melted, oozing chocolate inside. I should also mention the great fresh-ground Four Barrel Coffee.
Next time we'll have to order the signature suckling pig!
Maialino: 2 Lexington Ave., (212) 777-2410.
So I thought I'd repeat my visit. Tonight, a friend and I scored a last-minute early reservation. The bread basket of spicy breadsticks, crusty sesame loaf and focaccia was devoured in about five minutes. Stracciatella, a sort of Italian egg drop soup, was rich and delicious. The salad misticanza was less appealing - a pile of plainly dressed arugula seemed to go on for miles and needed a bit of blue cheese or something.
Homemade tonnarelli cacio e pepe was wonderful - lots of black pepper and pungent pecorino coated the wavy noodles. My friend enjoyed the bombolotti, big, al dente pasta tubes with guanciale and tomato. But what really impressed me was my dessert - and the superlative service. I couldn't decide between the olive oil cake with vanilla bean mascarpone and the gianduja bread pudding. Our server debated the merits of both with me, and then hooked me up with the best of both worlds: a dish of vanilla mascarpone and the round bread pudding. The warm, buttery dessert was sprinkled with toasted hazelnuts and contained a surprise of melted, oozing chocolate inside. I should also mention the great fresh-ground Four Barrel Coffee.
Next time we'll have to order the signature suckling pig!
Maialino: 2 Lexington Ave., (212) 777-2410.
Sunday, December 26, 2010
Little Cupcake Bakeshop
Just in case you're not quite finished with your holiday overindulging, here's a tip for you: one of the most decadent experiences in NYC awaits you at 30 Prince Street. Open just ten weeks, Little Cupcake Bakeshop is already mobbed, and it's easy to see why. Not only does the place stock every flavor of cupcake imaginable (French toast!), but there are homemade whoopie pies and smores, black and white brownie trifles swirled with raspberry, all kinds of three-layer cakes (red velvet, blue velvet made with blueberries and buttermilk, almond with meringue icing and raspberry-vanilla buttercream filling, maple-iced pumpkin spice), several flavors of cheesecake like Nutella and Oreo, and a long list of enticing winter beverages - the gingerbread latte is apparently quite a draw. It took me three tries to finish the trifle. (And that's saying something.)
Little Cupcake Bakeshop: 30 Prince St., (212) 941-9100.
Little Cupcake Bakeshop: 30 Prince St., (212) 941-9100.
Monday, December 20, 2010
Where To (Deliciously) Celebrate a One-Year-Old's Birthday
This was my dilemma; Baby Vates was turning one. Since we share a birthday, I wanted to throw a very special kind of party. The adults would need something delicious to eat while the children ran around like maniacs. Baby gyms like Kidville and Gymboree rent space out for parties, but food is obviously not included. Alice's Tea Cup has a baby/kid menu but is much too civilized. One restaurant informed me that they could not fit our party at one table, but that we had better make sure that the children did not run around between multiple tables. Things weren't looking good.
After several days spent Googling, I finally found the perfect solution: the private party room at the 2nd Avenue location of Totonno's. A large upstairs space decorated with holiday lights was the venue for our joyous occasion, and the best part is that we didn't have to lift a finger. The experienced staff thought of everything. A guest who couldn't eat pepper was offered a Caesar salad while the rest of us devoured a zesty green one filled with olives and onions. An onslaught of brick-oven pizzas of every variety bombarded our 28-person table. Two plain pies for the kids were served first - they were topped with a generous layer of fresh handmade mozzarella. Someone got antsy - where is the rest of the pizza? Is any more coming? "We make everything to order," said the owner reassuringly. "Don't worry, we'll make sure they eat till they puke." My aunt pronounced the ensuing white pizza "the best I've ever had." Fresh basil and tomatoes that somehow maintained their sweetness in the middle of December adorned a cheese-heavy pie. Then there were mushroom pies, and sausage pies, and a fantastic pepperoni pizza that went in two seconds. The pepperoni had a spicy afterkick that rendered the pie completely irresistible. Then there was another pepperoni pizza. Appetites were starting to flag...
...when the lights went off, and two cakes - chocolate for me and lemon for my son - were served. I didn't even have to give any directions for the cake decorations. My cake sported pink icing, while my son's had an attractive blue design.
The adults left stuffed, the kids left tired out from fencing with balloons, and I left completely satisfied by a perfect party. (I also hauled out a week's worth of leftover pizza.)
Totonno's: 462 2nd Ave., (212) 213-8800. (NOTE: Sadly, both Manhattan locations are now closed. 4-2011)
After several days spent Googling, I finally found the perfect solution: the private party room at the 2nd Avenue location of Totonno's. A large upstairs space decorated with holiday lights was the venue for our joyous occasion, and the best part is that we didn't have to lift a finger. The experienced staff thought of everything. A guest who couldn't eat pepper was offered a Caesar salad while the rest of us devoured a zesty green one filled with olives and onions. An onslaught of brick-oven pizzas of every variety bombarded our 28-person table. Two plain pies for the kids were served first - they were topped with a generous layer of fresh handmade mozzarella. Someone got antsy - where is the rest of the pizza? Is any more coming? "We make everything to order," said the owner reassuringly. "Don't worry, we'll make sure they eat till they puke." My aunt pronounced the ensuing white pizza "the best I've ever had." Fresh basil and tomatoes that somehow maintained their sweetness in the middle of December adorned a cheese-heavy pie. Then there were mushroom pies, and sausage pies, and a fantastic pepperoni pizza that went in two seconds. The pepperoni had a spicy afterkick that rendered the pie completely irresistible. Then there was another pepperoni pizza. Appetites were starting to flag...
...when the lights went off, and two cakes - chocolate for me and lemon for my son - were served. I didn't even have to give any directions for the cake decorations. My cake sported pink icing, while my son's had an attractive blue design.
The adults left stuffed, the kids left tired out from fencing with balloons, and I left completely satisfied by a perfect party. (I also hauled out a week's worth of leftover pizza.)
Totonno's: 462 2nd Ave., (212) 213-8800. (NOTE: Sadly, both Manhattan locations are now closed. 4-2011)
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
The Dow Jones Pasta Index
You're probably wondering what the heck this is, as did I when I saw it on the menu at Sandro's, a Roman restaurant on the Upper East Side. It's the brainchild of chef Sandro Fioriti, and the only reason to hope that the economy gets worse. The lower the Dow, the lower the price of all pasta entrees (except for the ravioli) until 6:30 p.m. Last night, that meant a huge bowl of fat, chewy bucatini (spaghetti on steroids) in a tomato sauce filled with tender chunks of pancetta, onions and the odd basil leaf, and a healthy portion of whisper-soft fettucini in a rich bolognese sauce. Normally, the prices of these dishes hover around the $23 range. But with such a deal, we didn't feel guilty indulging in Caesar salad and a wonderful tiramisu - the latter was served as a parfait. The top half of the glass was filled with light mascarpone foam into which had been mixed some tiny chocolate chips, while the base consisted of dense, espresso liqueur-drenched ladyfingers. There was also an interesting beverage on the menu which I'd never seen before: an infusion of clove-studded lemon peels. Perfect to take the chill off of the night.
Sandro's: 306 East 81st St., (212) 288-7374.
Sandro's: 306 East 81st St., (212) 288-7374.
Thursday, November 18, 2010
Chocolate Overload
I must have consumed a pound of chocolate bars at last week's Chocolate Show. But there are so many ways to enjoy chocolate other than in candy form, and here are a few of my new (and newish) favorites in the city.
- 72% Bittersweet Chocolate Macarons. One-year-old Bisous Ciao offers a wonderful, multi-colored array of macarons in flavors like salted caramel (the most popular), jasmine/green tea, and espresso, but it's the dark chocolate macaron that I can't stop thinking about. (Bisous Ciao: 101 Stanton St., 212-260-3463.)
- Chocolate-Raspberry Cupcakes. Burrata, which has been serving pizza margherita to Upper West Siders for just one week, also has a selection of dainty cupcakes in traditional flavors like chocolate-iced vanilla and chocolate-raspberry. There are no elaborate Cupcake Cafe-style floral decorations here -just the cupcake and nothing but the cupcake. (That's how I like it.) (Burrata: 341 Amsterdam Ave., 212-362-0264.)
- Single-Origin Hot Chocolate. You can take a world tour from Madagascar to Ecuador with the six varieties of hot chocolate at L.A. Burdick. Of course, the mini-chain is mostly known for its pretty little truffles, some of which feature a savory touch of cumin or pepper. (L.A. Burdick: 5 East 20th St., 212-796-0143.)
Friday, November 12, 2010
The 13th Annual Chocolate Show
The buzzword at the 13th Annual Chocolate Show seems to be "raw," and I'm not sure how I feel about that - to me, raw chocolates tend to taste rather like paint. (And if I want to eat something healthy, I'll visit a juice bar.) Still, there's a lot to enjoy at this year's somewhat scaled-back show. (Remember when the event was so huge that it took over the adjacent building?)
But first, if you happen to be a fan of the raw chocolate movement, you'll want to visit: Gnosis ("The World's Most Nutritious Chocolate"), which is offering samples of pomegranate-acai and fleur de sel raw, vegan, dairyless chocolate; Nibmor, which serves a maple and palm sugar dairyless cocoa mix in four flavors, the Ecuadorian raw organic 84% chocolate of Antidote, and the fair-trade selection of Divine Organics.
For me, I'll stick to the apricot ganache samples offered by Valrhona, the chocolate-covered peanut butter and jelly macarons ($3) of Francois Payard, three varieties of chocolate fondue at Les Fondues Au Chocolat (they provide complimentary grapes for dipping, whereas Lily O'Brien's pay-per-dip chocolate fountain gives you marshmallows, graham crackers and pretzels but no fruit), and the 80% cacao bonbon samples offered by Jacques Torres.
Those with a salt tooth will want to try Neuchatel's chocolate-covered potato chips, chocolate-covered bacon strips from Co Co. Sala, and chocolate popcorn by 2 Chicks with Chocolate at The Wine Collection. Peanut butter lovers have both the longtime vendor Peanut Butter & Company and Jer's Gourmet Chocolates.
And what's chocolate without its complementary flavor, vanilla? There's a Bourbon Vanilla from Madagascar stand which is selling vanilla beans and powders.
If you need someone to explain all the attributes of single-origin chocolates, it's best to go see author Alexandra Leaf over at Pralus Chocolatier. She will point out the notes of coffee and fudge in a Brazilian sample and you'll taste chocolate in an enlightened new way. Bonnat Chocolatier also features a good selection of South American single-origin bars.
Many of this year's exhibitors are based in France (Comptoir de Cacao has some wonderful praline samples) , but there's a small Italian corner featuring Guido Gobino and T'a Sentimento Cioccolato, which was headed up by a relative of Italy's most famous panettone manufacturer. At Gobino you can sample the giandujotti, which are $28 at Eataly for a lamentably small package.
Kids can get in on the action with Tina Cocolina books and a Kids Zone where they can use stencils to make sweet-tasting drawings,design chef's hats and dip spoons in chocolate. The three most ornate chocolatiers are Tampa-based William Dean, with tropical-colored confections, customizable chocolate decorations from Poesies Chocolatees (check out the snowflakes and Christmas ornaments. and vintage-influenced Rogue, which uses a special heat infusion process to imprint multi-colored designs onto their chocolates.
Cafe Bustelo is serving free cappuccino, espresso and mocha on the south side of the room. No need to pay for your coffee at the cafe on the opposite side - you're already out $28 just for the tickets to the show! Still, it's hard to leave without purchasing something - I left with a jar of chocolate milk jam from Normandy, a tube of creme de noisette from Pralus (it makes Nutella irrelevant), and two saucer-sized macarons from Payard. It was nice to be presented with a free cup of Callebaut's callets upon exiting - they went pretty quickly.
The Chocolate Show: The Metropolitan Pavilion, 125 West 18th St.
But first, if you happen to be a fan of the raw chocolate movement, you'll want to visit: Gnosis ("The World's Most Nutritious Chocolate"), which is offering samples of pomegranate-acai and fleur de sel raw, vegan, dairyless chocolate; Nibmor, which serves a maple and palm sugar dairyless cocoa mix in four flavors, the Ecuadorian raw organic 84% chocolate of Antidote, and the fair-trade selection of Divine Organics.
For me, I'll stick to the apricot ganache samples offered by Valrhona, the chocolate-covered peanut butter and jelly macarons ($3) of Francois Payard, three varieties of chocolate fondue at Les Fondues Au Chocolat (they provide complimentary grapes for dipping, whereas Lily O'Brien's pay-per-dip chocolate fountain gives you marshmallows, graham crackers and pretzels but no fruit), and the 80% cacao bonbon samples offered by Jacques Torres.
Those with a salt tooth will want to try Neuchatel's chocolate-covered potato chips, chocolate-covered bacon strips from Co Co. Sala, and chocolate popcorn by 2 Chicks with Chocolate at The Wine Collection. Peanut butter lovers have both the longtime vendor Peanut Butter & Company and Jer's Gourmet Chocolates.
And what's chocolate without its complementary flavor, vanilla? There's a Bourbon Vanilla from Madagascar stand which is selling vanilla beans and powders.
If you need someone to explain all the attributes of single-origin chocolates, it's best to go see author Alexandra Leaf over at Pralus Chocolatier. She will point out the notes of coffee and fudge in a Brazilian sample and you'll taste chocolate in an enlightened new way. Bonnat Chocolatier also features a good selection of South American single-origin bars.
Many of this year's exhibitors are based in France (Comptoir de Cacao has some wonderful praline samples) , but there's a small Italian corner featuring Guido Gobino and T'a Sentimento Cioccolato, which was headed up by a relative of Italy's most famous panettone manufacturer. At Gobino you can sample the giandujotti, which are $28 at Eataly for a lamentably small package.
Kids can get in on the action with Tina Cocolina books and a Kids Zone where they can use stencils to make sweet-tasting drawings,design chef's hats and dip spoons in chocolate. The three most ornate chocolatiers are Tampa-based William Dean, with tropical-colored confections, customizable chocolate decorations from Poesies Chocolatees (check out the snowflakes and Christmas ornaments. and vintage-influenced Rogue, which uses a special heat infusion process to imprint multi-colored designs onto their chocolates.
Cafe Bustelo is serving free cappuccino, espresso and mocha on the south side of the room. No need to pay for your coffee at the cafe on the opposite side - you're already out $28 just for the tickets to the show! Still, it's hard to leave without purchasing something - I left with a jar of chocolate milk jam from Normandy, a tube of creme de noisette from Pralus (it makes Nutella irrelevant), and two saucer-sized macarons from Payard. It was nice to be presented with a free cup of Callebaut's callets upon exiting - they went pretty quickly.
The Chocolate Show: The Metropolitan Pavilion, 125 West 18th St.
Sunday, November 07, 2010
Donguri
I still feel the loss of both Toraya, the Japanese tea and sweets room, and Ito-En's flagship store on Madison Avenue that included the kaiseki-focused Kai. Fortunately, New Yorkers still have Ito-En's Donguri, a cozy little slip of a place on an out-of-the-way Upper East Side block. I was craving some miso soup and hot sake last night, so I met a couple friends over there.
As the night went on, the ambience went from reverent to lively; at the end of the meal we almost had to shout. (This could have been due to the consumption of sake.) However, we were able to focus on the food, and some of it was truly memorable.
Our onslaught of appetizers included zaru soba, spicy octopus, corn tempura, miso soup, and sesame tofu (they were out of soy tofu, and later, grilled mackerel). The perfectly al dente soba was of the Inaniwa variety and was served with the typical toasted seaweed squares, scallions, wasabi and soy dipping sauce. The scallion-heavy miso soup was fine, but I'd been craving Tokyo-style red miso soup instead of soup made with white miso. The standout for me was the sweet corn tempura appetizer... sweet-salty disks of lightly battered crunchy corn were as addictive as popcorn.
For mains, two of us went with the chef's special sashimi, a well-balanced plate of thick chunks of tuna, a marbled rectangle of rich tuna belly, thinly-sliced snapper and fluke, salmon, orange clam, and yellowtail. I was glad I hadn't ordered the grilled Scottish salmon with salmon roe, as I wouldn't have had room. My other friend ordered the squid-ink risotto, also topped with salmon roe; I felt that this was rather one-note, not something I could eat an entire meal of.
For dessert, there was hojicha and then green tea pudding with vanilla bean ice cream. I wish we could have stayed longer (I drained three cups of sake, which is more alcohol than I've consumed since delivering my son), but the next party was itching to sit down. I don't blame them, as I am already planning my next visit.
Donguri: 309 East 83rd St., (212) 737-5656.
As the night went on, the ambience went from reverent to lively; at the end of the meal we almost had to shout. (This could have been due to the consumption of sake.) However, we were able to focus on the food, and some of it was truly memorable.
Our onslaught of appetizers included zaru soba, spicy octopus, corn tempura, miso soup, and sesame tofu (they were out of soy tofu, and later, grilled mackerel). The perfectly al dente soba was of the Inaniwa variety and was served with the typical toasted seaweed squares, scallions, wasabi and soy dipping sauce. The scallion-heavy miso soup was fine, but I'd been craving Tokyo-style red miso soup instead of soup made with white miso. The standout for me was the sweet corn tempura appetizer... sweet-salty disks of lightly battered crunchy corn were as addictive as popcorn.
For mains, two of us went with the chef's special sashimi, a well-balanced plate of thick chunks of tuna, a marbled rectangle of rich tuna belly, thinly-sliced snapper and fluke, salmon, orange clam, and yellowtail. I was glad I hadn't ordered the grilled Scottish salmon with salmon roe, as I wouldn't have had room. My other friend ordered the squid-ink risotto, also topped with salmon roe; I felt that this was rather one-note, not something I could eat an entire meal of.
For dessert, there was hojicha and then green tea pudding with vanilla bean ice cream. I wish we could have stayed longer (I drained three cups of sake, which is more alcohol than I've consumed since delivering my son), but the next party was itching to sit down. I don't blame them, as I am already planning my next visit.
Donguri: 309 East 83rd St., (212) 737-5656.
Thursday, October 07, 2010
Two Fabulous Fall 2010 Foodie Events
Here are two not-to-be-missed NYC food affairs:
1. My own personal favorite - the Chocolate Show! Buy tickets here.
2. NY Magazine's 12th Annual New York Taste on November 1st. This year, it will feature restaurants from Annisa to Zengo!
1. My own personal favorite - the Chocolate Show! Buy tickets here.
2. NY Magazine's 12th Annual New York Taste on November 1st. This year, it will feature restaurants from Annisa to Zengo!
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
Robataya's 1st Anniversary
Time flies. In December, my baby will turn one. And now Robataya, one of my favorite restaurants in the city, is celebrating its first anniversary from today through October 1. (I mean to post a review soon - the grilled sweet potatoes sprinkled with lemon juice are exquisite.) There will be a gift certificate lottery and a sake sale, and seasonal specialties like mackerel and matsutake mushrooms will be featured.
Robataya: 231 East 9th St., (212) 979-9674.
Robataya: 231 East 9th St., (212) 979-9674.
Monday, September 06, 2010
Valley Shepherd Creamery
I can never remember the farmer's market schedules; I just know that there were certain days that I hit the cheese jackpot at the Rockefeller Center farmer's market this summer. Slowly, I put two and two together and started to realize that it was the presence of the Valley Shepherd Creamery that was so mightily satisfying. The comte with a slight crunch, the ever-changing variety of Brie (would it be the amazing sheep/cow's milk Brie that tasted so authentic, or the goat's milk?), the tins of fresh ricotta...
I did happen to notice that the last day of the Rockefeller Center Farmer's Market was September 3. But I have some exciting news for you cheese-lovers: the New Jersey-based Valley Shepherd Creamery is opening up a store on 79 Sullivan Street. Apparently the owners will be mining their cheese cave at 6 a.m. on Tuesday, making all-day preparations, and then opening this Wednesday. Now you have another reason to "say cheese."
I did happen to notice that the last day of the Rockefeller Center Farmer's Market was September 3. But I have some exciting news for you cheese-lovers: the New Jersey-based Valley Shepherd Creamery is opening up a store on 79 Sullivan Street. Apparently the owners will be mining their cheese cave at 6 a.m. on Tuesday, making all-day preparations, and then opening this Wednesday. Now you have another reason to "say cheese."
Thursday, September 02, 2010
Eataly
This post is mostly for the out-of-towners, because judging from the crowds at Eataly, every New Yorker has already visited at least once since the opening day on August 31. (I've paid four visits and may pay another this evening.) Just in case you're not familiar, Eataly is a huge gourmet Italian market with eight separate restaurants inside focusing on different dishes like meat, pasta, pizza, vegetables, and fish. Its Italian mission make it more focused than the Plaza Food Hall, which aims at something similar.
I wanted to see if the New York store was exactly like the one in Torino. One main difference is that there's no Guido per Eataly, -the cutting-edge "fancy" restaurant on the bottom floor of the Torino store. Instead, there's Manzo, which focuses on Italian meats. Also, the produce and much of the dairy (except a wealth of cheeses like organic scamorza, saffron sheep's cheese, and buffalo blue) is necessarily local - I haven't tried the gelato yet, but I plan to, of course!
Today, there was a 30-minute wait for the pizza, so I sat on a barstool at Manzo. The six-course tasting menu wasn't available, but there was an appetizing display case of six different meats. I started with a seasonal salad that burst with freshness and taste. A champagne vinaigrette with a touch of mustard dressed a beautiful plate of red, yellow and green tomatoes, grilled baby zucchini, pattypan squash, and wax and green beans over a heap of arugula and toasted hazelnuts. Shavings of parmigiano Reggiano completed the dish. Then I dove into the robiola tortelloni. A pile of salty pancetta and sauteed chanterelles lay atop six hefty egg pasta pockets in a butter sauce. When I cut into a raviolo with my fork, the creamy, pungent robiola oozed out like egg yolk.
I have yet to visit the other restaurants, but I have made use of the coffee bar (it has the most extensive menu of coffee drinks in the city, including the famous Piedmontese bicerin) with its sumptuous apricot croissants. I've sampled Luca Montersini's tirati su and salted peanut/caramel tiramisu. I've also bought a fair amount of Venchi chocolates, rustic spelt bread, farro olive oil cookies, heirloom tomatoes, olive oil, and stracciatella from the mozzarella bar.
Two requests: can they please offer pizza to go, and can lunch be served past 2 pm? It seemed as though the whole place kind of closed down then - the mozzarella bar, with all of its delicious burrata and bocconcini, temporarily disappeared.
Eataly: 200 5th Ave.
I wanted to see if the New York store was exactly like the one in Torino. One main difference is that there's no Guido per Eataly, -the cutting-edge "fancy" restaurant on the bottom floor of the Torino store. Instead, there's Manzo, which focuses on Italian meats. Also, the produce and much of the dairy (except a wealth of cheeses like organic scamorza, saffron sheep's cheese, and buffalo blue) is necessarily local - I haven't tried the gelato yet, but I plan to, of course!
Today, there was a 30-minute wait for the pizza, so I sat on a barstool at Manzo. The six-course tasting menu wasn't available, but there was an appetizing display case of six different meats. I started with a seasonal salad that burst with freshness and taste. A champagne vinaigrette with a touch of mustard dressed a beautiful plate of red, yellow and green tomatoes, grilled baby zucchini, pattypan squash, and wax and green beans over a heap of arugula and toasted hazelnuts. Shavings of parmigiano Reggiano completed the dish. Then I dove into the robiola tortelloni. A pile of salty pancetta and sauteed chanterelles lay atop six hefty egg pasta pockets in a butter sauce. When I cut into a raviolo with my fork, the creamy, pungent robiola oozed out like egg yolk.
I have yet to visit the other restaurants, but I have made use of the coffee bar (it has the most extensive menu of coffee drinks in the city, including the famous Piedmontese bicerin) with its sumptuous apricot croissants. I've sampled Luca Montersini's tirati su and salted peanut/caramel tiramisu. I've also bought a fair amount of Venchi chocolates, rustic spelt bread, farro olive oil cookies, heirloom tomatoes, olive oil, and stracciatella from the mozzarella bar.
Two requests: can they please offer pizza to go, and can lunch be served past 2 pm? It seemed as though the whole place kind of closed down then - the mozzarella bar, with all of its delicious burrata and bocconcini, temporarily disappeared.
Eataly: 200 5th Ave.
Sweets News
Here is a bit of EXTREMELY sweet news:
September 15 is "Free Dessert Day!" Just book a reservation on Opentable.com and receive a free dessert at over 190 restaurants. A casa fox is serving a mini chocolate empanada with dulce de leche, while Sarabeth's Central Park South is featuring their Sarabeth's Signature New York Style Cheesecake.
September 15 is "Free Dessert Day!" Just book a reservation on Opentable.com and receive a free dessert at over 190 restaurants. A casa fox is serving a mini chocolate empanada with dulce de leche, while Sarabeth's Central Park South is featuring their Sarabeth's Signature New York Style Cheesecake.
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Katsuhama
You have a couple more hours to enjoy the celebratory $5.50 curry at Katsuhama. The restaurant has now been open for a whole year (not an easy feat in this economy). But if you're truly hungry, I recommend the daily lunch box special. What's so great about this is that you don't have to make a choice between cutlet or noodles - you get both. Yesterday I chose a small bowl of curry udon (other selections included kitsune udon and zaru soba), which was a pile of thick, chewy-soft wheat noodles in a medium-hot brown sauce with little bits of mushroom and a pile of scallions. That was only the appetizer. The box contained a delightful variety of all different tastes, temperatures and textures. There were: a deep-fried, marbled Berkshire pork cutlet inside a batter as crisp as cornflakes, a large scallion-studded chicken meatball seasoned with sweet soy, well-chilled sashimi slivers of brilliant orange wild salmon and red snapper as well as big chunks of tuna, cold, crunchy yellow radish and lettuce pickles, a small shredded sesame-burdock-carrot salad, and some sections of sweet kabocha squash. Run there, don't walk!
Katsuhama: 43-45 West 55th St., (212) 541-7145.
Katsuhama: 43-45 West 55th St., (212) 541-7145.
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Taste of Brooklyn Food Fest
Here's exciting news for the littlest foodies of Brooklyn: on August 28 and 29, the Brooklyn Children's Museum is holding a Taste of Brooklyn Food Fest. Kids will be able to make artworks out of pasta elbows, learn to make the best salsa, and eat sandwiches from Don Paco Lopez Jr. (Brooklyn Children's Museum: 145 Brooklyn Ave., (718) 735-4402.)
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Il Gattopardo
I've walked by this little Neopolitan restaurant so many times; today I finally stopped in for lunch. The white-walled, narrow room was brightened by an open backyard garden; the menu proved to be as appealing as the surroundings.
Although I initially planned to start with the mozzarella in carozza with anchovy sauce, I instead ordered a frisee salad. But wait, it's much more exciting than it sounds - this bed of frizzy chartreuse greens, dressed with the lightest balsamic vinaigrette, lay between two toasts smeared with an abundance of sweet, mellow Gorgonzola. On top, there was a good portion of crispy, salty pancetta spiced with peppercorns. Just lovely.
I craved pasta, although the seafood risotto special called to me, so I went with the burrata and artichoke stuffed ravioli in fresh tomato marjoram sauce. Seven plump pasta pockets were sprinkled with plenty of parmigiano, and torn fresh leaves of marjoram adorned the bright red sauce. I'd just been admiring the heirloom tomatoes at the Rockefeller Center farmer's market - the freshness of the tomatoes and herbs made me feel like the dish was straight from the farm.
Since I'd overdosed on bread and olive oil, I decided to forgo the warm chocolate cake and the cassata, but my cappuccino came with plenty of crispy little nut-studded biscotti. I'll go back to Il Gattopardo. (Or I'll order in - they're now delivering to Midtown.)
Il Gattopardo: 33 West 54th St.,(212) 246-0412.
Although I initially planned to start with the mozzarella in carozza with anchovy sauce, I instead ordered a frisee salad. But wait, it's much more exciting than it sounds - this bed of frizzy chartreuse greens, dressed with the lightest balsamic vinaigrette, lay between two toasts smeared with an abundance of sweet, mellow Gorgonzola. On top, there was a good portion of crispy, salty pancetta spiced with peppercorns. Just lovely.
I craved pasta, although the seafood risotto special called to me, so I went with the burrata and artichoke stuffed ravioli in fresh tomato marjoram sauce. Seven plump pasta pockets were sprinkled with plenty of parmigiano, and torn fresh leaves of marjoram adorned the bright red sauce. I'd just been admiring the heirloom tomatoes at the Rockefeller Center farmer's market - the freshness of the tomatoes and herbs made me feel like the dish was straight from the farm.
Since I'd overdosed on bread and olive oil, I decided to forgo the warm chocolate cake and the cassata, but my cappuccino came with plenty of crispy little nut-studded biscotti. I'll go back to Il Gattopardo. (Or I'll order in - they're now delivering to Midtown.)
Il Gattopardo: 33 West 54th St.,(212) 246-0412.
Friday, August 13, 2010
The Most Caffeinated Beverage in NYC
I was so tired today; my baby had barely slept the night before. Walking down West 52nd Street between 6th and 7th Avenues, I happened to see the 3-week-old Joyride Coffee and Yogurt Truck. In addition to a Mariebelle mocha and your garden-variety macchiatos and americanos, the menu listed an intriguing beverage called the Kubota (named for the truck generator).
"Three double shots of vanilla-bean infused espresso?" I asked in disbelief. "So, this has six shots in it?"
"Yes indeed," said Lev, the friendly barista.
"Oh, I've got to try this." There were two versions of the drink, one with more milk, so I decided on that one. (All milk was Organic Valley, and the coffee was Stumptown's Hairbender blend.)
The large, extra-strong latte with its swirl of velvety milk on top was surprisingly smooth and palatable. (I immediately felt a lift, but I have to admit that I was afraid to finish the whole drink.)
The Joyride Truck frequents Midtown and the Upper West Side. Apparently, the father of one of the truck owners is a chocolate expert with a list of the 10 best chocolates in the world; I'm dying to talk to him.
"Three double shots of vanilla-bean infused espresso?" I asked in disbelief. "So, this has six shots in it?"
"Yes indeed," said Lev, the friendly barista.
"Oh, I've got to try this." There were two versions of the drink, one with more milk, so I decided on that one. (All milk was Organic Valley, and the coffee was Stumptown's Hairbender blend.)
The large, extra-strong latte with its swirl of velvety milk on top was surprisingly smooth and palatable. (I immediately felt a lift, but I have to admit that I was afraid to finish the whole drink.)
The Joyride Truck frequents Midtown and the Upper West Side. Apparently, the father of one of the truck owners is a chocolate expert with a list of the 10 best chocolates in the world; I'm dying to talk to him.
Sunday, August 08, 2010
Hide-Chan Ramen
I have to preface this by saying that I am deeply saddened by the closing of Yakitori Torys; I preferred it to Yakitori Totto (both restaurants, as well as the new Hide-Chan Ramen, are part of the same restaurant group). However, I suppose Midtown needed another good ramen joint, and at Hide-Chan Ramen, the noodles are much more delicate and toothsome, and the broths more subtle, than those at Sapporo. The menu will soon expand to include Japanese fried chicken and a dish made with spicy cod roe; for now, it is limited to a few appetizers like gyoza (beautifully thin-skinned dumplings), curry edamame (what a great idea!), a couple of the salads you'll still find at Yakitori Totto (roasted sardine with poached egg and greens, and greens with tofu), and of course, noodle soup.
There are two special noodle soups right now, one is "no-fat" (I wasn't interested), and cold ramen hazuki with a katsuo broth (attention pescatarians, this is the only broth that does not contain pork, and you will have to request the omission of pork slices). My companion and I ordered the hakata kuro, or black roasted garlic oil, ramen. Two deliciously fatty slices of pork added richness to the inky, fragrant broth, which also contained a good portion of thin, al dente noodles, a mass of scallions and a brown, chewy vegetable that resembled tree ears. Our friends found the katsuo ramen rather bland - fortunately, there was a pepper shaker at the table.
I will always miss the much larger variety of menu options at Yakitori Torys, but it's good to know that a ramen hankering can be satisfied on East 52nd Street, which seems to be turning into another Little Japan. As a side note, a new Japanese jazz club, Miles Cafe, opened up just down the street at 248 East 52nd. The cafe is featuring some of the finest names in jazz, and serves sushi from the restaurant below.
Hide-Chan Ramen: 248 East 52nd St., (212) 813-1800.
There are two special noodle soups right now, one is "no-fat" (I wasn't interested), and cold ramen hazuki with a katsuo broth (attention pescatarians, this is the only broth that does not contain pork, and you will have to request the omission of pork slices). My companion and I ordered the hakata kuro, or black roasted garlic oil, ramen. Two deliciously fatty slices of pork added richness to the inky, fragrant broth, which also contained a good portion of thin, al dente noodles, a mass of scallions and a brown, chewy vegetable that resembled tree ears. Our friends found the katsuo ramen rather bland - fortunately, there was a pepper shaker at the table.
I will always miss the much larger variety of menu options at Yakitori Torys, but it's good to know that a ramen hankering can be satisfied on East 52nd Street, which seems to be turning into another Little Japan. As a side note, a new Japanese jazz club, Miles Cafe, opened up just down the street at 248 East 52nd. The cafe is featuring some of the finest names in jazz, and serves sushi from the restaurant below.
Hide-Chan Ramen: 248 East 52nd St., (212) 813-1800.
Tuesday, August 03, 2010
Lina Frey
Here's a French restaurant that won't leave you feeling like you overindulged (I love Le Gigot, but after a dinner of their duck confit, I was full for a week). Lina Frey is a hip little spot on Houston Street that specializes in small plates under $10. My pal craved the frisee salad with lardons and blue cheese, but they were out of it, so she ordered the bruschetta, which was sprinkled with diced red and green peppers, olives and fennel seeds, as well as a mixed green salad, crunchy haricots verts, and a round of salmon tartare. I went with a hazelnut-crusted salmon fillet (a bargain at $8), a side of your standard spinach sauteed in olive oil and garlic, and an order of "Provencal" fries. "What makes them Provencal?" I asked. The server responded that there was truffle oil in them. The truffle oil was not in evidence, and a side of spicy aioli was $1 extra, but there was a nice sprinkling of herbs on the hand-cut fries. I finished, not with the pot de creme, but with a blueberry coulis crepe ("Yes, we use fresh blueberries," assured the server). Our meal, plus two glasses of Montepulciano, cost us around $60 (happy hour alcohol prices are in force until 8 p.m.). Next time, strawberry coulis!
Lina Frey: 201 East Houston St., (212) 995-5546.
Lina Frey: 201 East Houston St., (212) 995-5546.
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Sweets News
Here's something sweet that will appeal to both kids and adults: undyed, all-natural cotton candy spun from maple sugar. Buy it at the Wood Homestead Maple Syrup stand at the Rockefeller Center Greenmarket for five more weeks, or just call 1-866-337-9787.
Sunday, July 18, 2010
The Landing at Ocean Beach
Ocean Beach's newest restaurant offers a delightful waterside dining experience at reasonable prices (well, reasonable for Ocean Beach). A friend and I chose it for a light lunch on a perfectly sunny beach afternoon. (We'd already overindulged on seafood bisque and fried flounder wraps at Nicky's Clam Bar before taking the ferry, so the giant pancakes at Rachel's weren't an option. Plus, we wanted to enjoy a view of the bay.)
A classic Caesar with grilled salmon sounded good, but I ended up with a sweet-savory green salad with lots of crumbled Maytag blue cheese, chunks of Granny Smith apple, and crispy candied walnuts in a sweet poppy seed dressing. My friend opted for the mussels provencal; two thick slices of well-buttered, grilled garlic bread lay aside a healthy portion of mussels in a light garlic-wine sauce with diced tomatoes.
If my appetite had allowed, I would've tried the fried scallop sandwich or the fish and chips (only $12). Next time I visit Ocean Beach, I will try to resist the allure of Nicky's so that I can wait to eat at The Landing!
The Landing at Ocean Beach: 620 Bay Walk, Ocean Beach, Fire Island (631) 583-5800.
A classic Caesar with grilled salmon sounded good, but I ended up with a sweet-savory green salad with lots of crumbled Maytag blue cheese, chunks of Granny Smith apple, and crispy candied walnuts in a sweet poppy seed dressing. My friend opted for the mussels provencal; two thick slices of well-buttered, grilled garlic bread lay aside a healthy portion of mussels in a light garlic-wine sauce with diced tomatoes.
If my appetite had allowed, I would've tried the fried scallop sandwich or the fish and chips (only $12). Next time I visit Ocean Beach, I will try to resist the allure of Nicky's so that I can wait to eat at The Landing!
The Landing at Ocean Beach: 620 Bay Walk, Ocean Beach, Fire Island (631) 583-5800.
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Sweets News
I hear we're supposed to have another heat wave. At least through August 1, Rosa Mexicano has us covered; the restaurant is serving a selection of exotic Mexican ice cream and sorbet. Sea salt caramel, blueberry creme fraiche, sweet corn with caramel popcorn, and burnt milk with cinnamon-chocolate cookies are some of the ice cream flavors, while the sorbets include hibiscus-pomegranate and tomatillo-lime. There's also a variety of ice cream desserts. (Note: if you attend a free cooking demo on Saturday, July 17, you'll have a chance to win an ice cream maker. To register, call (212) 397-0666 x27 or E-mail dcastillo@rosamexicano.com.)
Rosa Mexicano: Various locations.
Rosa Mexicano: Various locations.
Thursday, July 08, 2010
The Best Chocolate Cake in the World
Of course I had to try this place as soon as I heard about it. It opened up next to Ceci-Cela, another favorite bakery, a couple weeks ago. Apparently it's a Portugal-based chain that expanded to various Brazilian cities. (When I think of Brazil, I usually picture bathing beauties or soccer players, not people who indulge in semi-sweet and bittersweet flourless cakes coated with rich, dark ganache.)
The two versions of the cake (the recipe is the same, except for the Valrhona cocoa content) are served with glasses of milk, or whipped cream, or your choice of Il Laboratorio del Gelato (fresh mint or raspberry are nice). There's a thick layer of chocolate mousse, while a soft meringue base adds a spongy mouthfeel.
So, is this cake the best chocolate cake in the world? I'm not sure; I'm rather partial to the so-chocolatey-it's-almost-black Brooklyn Blackout at Two Little Red Hens, or the Nocturne at Michel Cluizel (I guess that's cheating, as it has raspberry jam in it, and what's even better than chocolate? Chocolate with raspberry jam). But it's definitely a contender if you are open to a nontraditional cake with meringue instead of actual "cake"; both versions are creamy, intensely chocolatey, and not overly sweet.
The Best Chocolate Cake in the World: 55A Spring St. (212) 343-2253.
The two versions of the cake (the recipe is the same, except for the Valrhona cocoa content) are served with glasses of milk, or whipped cream, or your choice of Il Laboratorio del Gelato (fresh mint or raspberry are nice). There's a thick layer of chocolate mousse, while a soft meringue base adds a spongy mouthfeel.
So, is this cake the best chocolate cake in the world? I'm not sure; I'm rather partial to the so-chocolatey-it's-almost-black Brooklyn Blackout at Two Little Red Hens, or the Nocturne at Michel Cluizel (I guess that's cheating, as it has raspberry jam in it, and what's even better than chocolate? Chocolate with raspberry jam). But it's definitely a contender if you are open to a nontraditional cake with meringue instead of actual "cake"; both versions are creamy, intensely chocolatey, and not overly sweet.
The Best Chocolate Cake in the World: 55A Spring St. (212) 343-2253.
Friday, July 02, 2010
Francois Chocolate Bar
I miss the old, wood-panelled Payard on Lexington Avenue; the new one, way up on the fourth floor of a Parisian jewelry store, is much smaller and quieter, with a fraction of the old menu. However, another location will open on Houston Street in a couple months, and I'm sure it will be packed with both goodies and people (like me).
One treat I never glimpsed at the old Payard is the verrine, which I highly recommend. This refreshing summer parfait comes in several variations - the strawberry tiramisu contains vanilla pound cake, strawberries that have been roasted for four hours, mascarpone and candied fennel, while a Japanese-influenced verrine features a layer of tart yuzu cream. This being Payard, of course there's also an all-chocolate verrine.
Other menu items feature signature pastries, hot and cold chocolate drinks, macarons, pound cake and cookies, and a selection of chocolate bouchons. You can still order those wonderful chewy flourless chocolate walnut cookies; now there's a flourless milk chocolate cake with candied orange and hazelnuts.
Even though it was so warm out, I ordered a hot dark chocolate with orange blossom and raspberry. The fruit rescued it from being too rich, and I easily drained the whole cup.
Francois Chocolate Bar @ Mauboussin: 714 Madison Ave., (212) 759-1600.
One treat I never glimpsed at the old Payard is the verrine, which I highly recommend. This refreshing summer parfait comes in several variations - the strawberry tiramisu contains vanilla pound cake, strawberries that have been roasted for four hours, mascarpone and candied fennel, while a Japanese-influenced verrine features a layer of tart yuzu cream. This being Payard, of course there's also an all-chocolate verrine.
Other menu items feature signature pastries, hot and cold chocolate drinks, macarons, pound cake and cookies, and a selection of chocolate bouchons. You can still order those wonderful chewy flourless chocolate walnut cookies; now there's a flourless milk chocolate cake with candied orange and hazelnuts.
Even though it was so warm out, I ordered a hot dark chocolate with orange blossom and raspberry. The fruit rescued it from being too rich, and I easily drained the whole cup.
Francois Chocolate Bar @ Mauboussin: 714 Madison Ave., (212) 759-1600.
Monday, June 28, 2010
I Sodi
Smack in the middle of always-bustling Christopher Street is a calm, elegant Tuscan restaurant with its own brand of olive oil. I had always wanted to pay a visit, and my acquisition of a $20 OpenTable gift certificate was the occasion to finally dine there. Recently, Alto disappointed me with bland flavors at high prices, but I Sodi was the total opposite, and I'm now completely enamored with it.
I went with a friend who loves to share (isn't that the best kind of friend?). We began with a peppery mache salad. The leaves were interspersed with cubes of toothsome pecorino and dressed with a mild balsamic vinaigrette that almost tasted of caramel. (The arugula with castelmagno salad also looked enticing.) Then we devoured a wonderful whole-wheat tagliatelle special. The nubby, deliciously uneven texture of the noodles made every bite an interesting one; each mouthful had a different ratio of anchovy, garlic and melted butter.
We had intended on ordering osso buco or grilled Cornish hen for our second course, but the seafood mixed grill special sounded too appealing. "Someone likes pepper," my friend exclaimed as we dug into a bountiful plate of generously-portioned wild salmon with crispy skin, long thin ovals of grilled zucchini, slightly charred tomatoes, a langoustine and a little jumble of octopus legs. Lemon, olive oil, parsley and pepper were simple, appropriate seasonings that let the sweet seafood shine through.
But what I'll really remember is the warm flaky tart with intense fig jam. It was served with creamy fior di latte gelato, homemade whipped cream, a splash of vanilla coulis and a mint leaf. Our enjoyment must have been evident, because the server also brought by a complimentary plate of watermelon slices and cherries to celebrate the season. I Sodi is a class act from start to finish.
I Sodi: 105 Christopher St., (212) 414-5774.
I went with a friend who loves to share (isn't that the best kind of friend?). We began with a peppery mache salad. The leaves were interspersed with cubes of toothsome pecorino and dressed with a mild balsamic vinaigrette that almost tasted of caramel. (The arugula with castelmagno salad also looked enticing.) Then we devoured a wonderful whole-wheat tagliatelle special. The nubby, deliciously uneven texture of the noodles made every bite an interesting one; each mouthful had a different ratio of anchovy, garlic and melted butter.
We had intended on ordering osso buco or grilled Cornish hen for our second course, but the seafood mixed grill special sounded too appealing. "Someone likes pepper," my friend exclaimed as we dug into a bountiful plate of generously-portioned wild salmon with crispy skin, long thin ovals of grilled zucchini, slightly charred tomatoes, a langoustine and a little jumble of octopus legs. Lemon, olive oil, parsley and pepper were simple, appropriate seasonings that let the sweet seafood shine through.
But what I'll really remember is the warm flaky tart with intense fig jam. It was served with creamy fior di latte gelato, homemade whipped cream, a splash of vanilla coulis and a mint leaf. Our enjoyment must have been evident, because the server also brought by a complimentary plate of watermelon slices and cherries to celebrate the season. I Sodi is a class act from start to finish.
I Sodi: 105 Christopher St., (212) 414-5774.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
B Koffie and Organicoa
It's a furnace out there lately, so I'm always looking for refreshment. B Koffie (370 West 51st St., 646-330-5515), the "first African coffee shop," offers cold-brewed coffee, pomegranate redbush tea, and acai berry green tea. (They also serve a nice cup of Ethiopian Yirgacheffe.) Down by the Christopher Street Pier (Pier 45), I like to watch the live tango dancers while sipping fair-trade "frocoa" (frozen cocoa), ginger lemonade, and mint tea from Organicoa. This little stand was a big hit during its test run at the Highline, so its owners now have a five-year-contract at the pier. (Don't forget to take away one of the big organic chocolate-chip cookies.)
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Cafe Royal and Brooklyn Standard Deli
Greenpoint's Cafe Grumpy has a competitor in this four-month-old (two months, if you count the addition of edibles), maroon-walled Nassau Street cafe, which features Stumptown Coffee. I stopped in today to share a cheese plate with a friend. I was immediately transfixed by the cherry pepper jam that Tanto, one of the chefs, was making, and he let me try a sample, saying, "It's great with cheese." Tanto expounded on the cafe's philosophy of Southern hospitality while I checked out the menu.
The dainty portions served at Cafe Royal would never pass muster in the South, but there's quite a lot to enjoy here; you may just have to order more than you intended. The (slivers of!) Manchego, Fourme D'Ambert and Humboldt Fog in the cheese plate are complimented by lavender honey and fresh berries; herbed quiche from Ceci Cela doesn't stint on the goat cheese, and there's a terrific fingerling potato salad underneath the olive-oil-drizzled frisee and pickled red onions on smoked rainbow trout plate. (Small bites of chilled trout surrounded the salad; I'd been expecting a Roebling Tea Room-style whole grilled trout.) You can order your grilled cheddar sandwich with bacon, avocado or tomato. And I've been told that the biscuits with sausage gravy are something to write home about.
Down the street is the delightful organic/locavore market Brooklyn Standard Deli. Today, there were a few soups, two of which were garlic and broccolini, raw vegan chocolate ice cream, fresh chocolate-chip bread with either banana or pumpkin, and a selection of both vegan and meat sandwiches. I noticed a bag of fingerling potatoes - ah, that potato salad!
Cafe Royal and Brooklyn Standard Deli: 195 and 188 Nassau St., respectively, Brooklyn. (718) 472-2150.
The dainty portions served at Cafe Royal would never pass muster in the South, but there's quite a lot to enjoy here; you may just have to order more than you intended. The (slivers of!) Manchego, Fourme D'Ambert and Humboldt Fog in the cheese plate are complimented by lavender honey and fresh berries; herbed quiche from Ceci Cela doesn't stint on the goat cheese, and there's a terrific fingerling potato salad underneath the olive-oil-drizzled frisee and pickled red onions on smoked rainbow trout plate. (Small bites of chilled trout surrounded the salad; I'd been expecting a Roebling Tea Room-style whole grilled trout.) You can order your grilled cheddar sandwich with bacon, avocado or tomato. And I've been told that the biscuits with sausage gravy are something to write home about.
Down the street is the delightful organic/locavore market Brooklyn Standard Deli. Today, there were a few soups, two of which were garlic and broccolini, raw vegan chocolate ice cream, fresh chocolate-chip bread with either banana or pumpkin, and a selection of both vegan and meat sandwiches. I noticed a bag of fingerling potatoes - ah, that potato salad!
Cafe Royal and Brooklyn Standard Deli: 195 and 188 Nassau St., respectively, Brooklyn. (718) 472-2150.
Saturday, June 05, 2010
The Plaza Food Hall
Walking into Todd English's brand-new Plaza Food Hall, I heard someone ask, "What are you in the mood for?" It wasn't a question with an easy answer. There was a sushi bar, a tapas bar, a brick oven for pizza, a cheese/charcuterie/bread/coffee/chocolate counter, a fresh seafood display a la Estiatorio Milos, an Asian dumpling bar, and a grill. Almost every seat was taken except a couple at the tapas bar, so that's where I plunked myself down. However, I was to find that every menu is available wherever one sits. (I wonder if this may change in the future, as there are plates of pesto maki flying all the way from the sushi bar to the folks ordering prime rib sliders at the other end of the room.)
I knew I wanted one of the blueberry-filled lemon meringue cupcakes I'd seen at the front, but I decided to pace myself, ordering... artichoke cacio e pepe, brandade fritters, charred octopus salad, grilled asparagus with preserved lemon zest, and lamb skewers from the tapas bar, a sweet Italian sausage pizza from the brick oven, and some crab salad rolls from the grill. (This was my only meal of the day, I swear.) For me, the standouts were: crab rolls... tons of sweet crabmeat tossed in mustardy aioli, spilling out of three toasted onion brioches; the sausage and aged provolone pizza with a marvelous, chewy crust that was not overcharred in the slightest; and the brandade fritters, which were lightly battered codfish cakes in a pool of romesco sauce and olive oil. (The one false note was the artichoke cacio e pepe, which was acrid and lacked pecorino - I think this simple dish of pasta, tossed only with black pepper and cheese, is perfect as is.) The cupcakes (chocolate grasshopper, strawberry cheesecake, and lemon meringue) were made by English's daughter; the homemade strawberry jam inside the strawberry cheesecake was a lovely surprise.
Now I'd like to go back to try the Kobe pastrami, the whole branzino, and the prime rib sliders!
(ETA: I just went back for lunch today, and I want to mention how accommodating the hosts were to my baby-in-stroller. When I'd requested outdoor seating at Sarabeth's, I was refused and told that I'd be creating a fire hazard. But when I got off the escalator and strolled into the Food Hall, a smiling lady led me to the seafood counter and let me park my City Mini right in the corner.)
The Plaza Food Hall: 1 West 59th St., Plaza Hotel, Concourse.
I knew I wanted one of the blueberry-filled lemon meringue cupcakes I'd seen at the front, but I decided to pace myself, ordering... artichoke cacio e pepe, brandade fritters, charred octopus salad, grilled asparagus with preserved lemon zest, and lamb skewers from the tapas bar, a sweet Italian sausage pizza from the brick oven, and some crab salad rolls from the grill. (This was my only meal of the day, I swear.) For me, the standouts were: crab rolls... tons of sweet crabmeat tossed in mustardy aioli, spilling out of three toasted onion brioches; the sausage and aged provolone pizza with a marvelous, chewy crust that was not overcharred in the slightest; and the brandade fritters, which were lightly battered codfish cakes in a pool of romesco sauce and olive oil. (The one false note was the artichoke cacio e pepe, which was acrid and lacked pecorino - I think this simple dish of pasta, tossed only with black pepper and cheese, is perfect as is.) The cupcakes (chocolate grasshopper, strawberry cheesecake, and lemon meringue) were made by English's daughter; the homemade strawberry jam inside the strawberry cheesecake was a lovely surprise.
Now I'd like to go back to try the Kobe pastrami, the whole branzino, and the prime rib sliders!
(ETA: I just went back for lunch today, and I want to mention how accommodating the hosts were to my baby-in-stroller. When I'd requested outdoor seating at Sarabeth's, I was refused and told that I'd be creating a fire hazard. But when I got off the escalator and strolled into the Food Hall, a smiling lady led me to the seafood counter and let me park my City Mini right in the corner.)
The Plaza Food Hall: 1 West 59th St., Plaza Hotel, Concourse.
Tuesday, June 01, 2010
Ayza Wine & Chocolate Bar
Looking around us, my friend and I wondered why the clientele at Ayza was almost exclusively female. And why was everyone ordering chocolate-raspberry martinis? Finally the waitress provided an explanation; apparently, Tuesdays are "Girls' Nights Out," and if you make a reservation on OpenTable, you can celebrate your two X chromosomes with a chocolate-covered strawberry and a chocolate-raspberry martini. Who needs to see the second Sex & the City movie when one can live it in realtime? (Who, indeed. But that's a post for a movie blog!)
The menu at Ayza, which features much more than wine and Jacques Torres truffles, is tapas-focused - perfect for taking a bite in between people-watching. Small appetizers - like crispy baby shrimp wontons in a sweet chili sauce over a seaweed salad, a nicely presented Caprese salad with melt-in-your-mouth buffalo mozzarella, and a velvety asparagus soup spiced up with black peppercorns - share space with a selection of tartines, panini and a few main courses like radiatore pasta and chicken paillard. Not to mention a fine little cheese list, and of course, desserts like warm molten chocolate cake. All prices are quite reasonable except for the martinis, which are $15-$16 (other cocktails are $10-$16); another reason to go on a Tuesday to enjoy them for free.
I should mention that upon being seated, we were given complimentary cups of tropical sangria. Now, if only I'd mentioned "Girls' Night Out" on my OpenTable reservation...
Ayza Wine & Chocolate Bar: 11 West 31st St., (212) 714-2992.
The menu at Ayza, which features much more than wine and Jacques Torres truffles, is tapas-focused - perfect for taking a bite in between people-watching. Small appetizers - like crispy baby shrimp wontons in a sweet chili sauce over a seaweed salad, a nicely presented Caprese salad with melt-in-your-mouth buffalo mozzarella, and a velvety asparagus soup spiced up with black peppercorns - share space with a selection of tartines, panini and a few main courses like radiatore pasta and chicken paillard. Not to mention a fine little cheese list, and of course, desserts like warm molten chocolate cake. All prices are quite reasonable except for the martinis, which are $15-$16 (other cocktails are $10-$16); another reason to go on a Tuesday to enjoy them for free.
I should mention that upon being seated, we were given complimentary cups of tropical sangria. Now, if only I'd mentioned "Girls' Night Out" on my OpenTable reservation...
Ayza Wine & Chocolate Bar: 11 West 31st St., (212) 714-2992.
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Chocolate Michel Cluizel
In my opinion, Chocolat Michel Cluizel makes the best milk chocolate bar on earth, so you can imagine how devastated I was when the company's little outpost in the ABC Carpet & Home store closed. But ABC didn't seem like the right venue; the newish shop on Fifth Avenue is a more intimate, charming showcase for the truffles, bars, and other goodies. The other day, I stocked up on salted butter caramels, pralines, dark chocolate hazelnut bark, a fabulous slice of chocolate-raspberry layer cake, and of course, those amazing Mangaro milk chocolate bars. You won't find a milk chocolate bar with a higher cocoa content; at 50%, the bar straddles the divide between the milk and the dark. It has a much deeper, more intense flavor than any other milk chocolate bar I've ever eaten, and it doesn't suffer from the excess of sugar which unfortunately mars many bars. (Mars Bars?)
Chocolat Michel Cluizel: 584 5th Ave, (646) 415-9126.
Chocolat Michel Cluizel: 584 5th Ave, (646) 415-9126.
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Takashi NYC
It seems that almost every kind of Japanese restaurant is represented in NYC (a restaurant which features the cuisine of Japanese Buddhist vegetarian monks recently opened, and of course there's the notorious pig-foot place Hakata Tonton), so it was only a matter of time until Osaka-style BBQ came to town. One-month-old Takashi is fast becoming the place to grill your own meat (and offal), I predict that in a couple weeks, it will be almost impossible to score a table there.
Yakiniku horomon lets no part of the cow go wasted - you can order first stomach, fourth stomach, tongue, liver, cheek and heart. (The chalkboard explains the health properties of everything!) There's also a raw meat menu which features chuck flap ground with fermented soybeans or sea urchin. I have to admit that our party left the more adventurous stones unturned here, sticking to grilled, lusciously marbled short ribs, liver and ribeye in two preparations: salt-garlic-sesame oil with lemon slices, and a soy marinade with scallions. Plates of rectangles of meat arrived at our table and we set to inexpertly grilling them - the server gave us detailed instructions for rare, medium-rare, etc., but they fell by the wayside. No matter - all was delicious anyway. Rice and veggies were extra - a bowl of lightly pickled vegetables, which included fennel and okra, was much more exciting than the plate of mostly cabbage presented for grilling. I suppose a vegetarian could make a meal of kimchi, peppery edamame and grilled vegetables, but he wouldn't be able to avoid seeing, ahem, red.
Housemade Madagascar vanilla ice cream comes with an assortment of toppings like roasted green tea syrup -I found the ground sesame and soybean to be a pleasantly nutty accompaniment.
Takashi NYC: 456 Hudson St., (212) 414-2929.
Yakiniku horomon lets no part of the cow go wasted - you can order first stomach, fourth stomach, tongue, liver, cheek and heart. (The chalkboard explains the health properties of everything!) There's also a raw meat menu which features chuck flap ground with fermented soybeans or sea urchin. I have to admit that our party left the more adventurous stones unturned here, sticking to grilled, lusciously marbled short ribs, liver and ribeye in two preparations: salt-garlic-sesame oil with lemon slices, and a soy marinade with scallions. Plates of rectangles of meat arrived at our table and we set to inexpertly grilling them - the server gave us detailed instructions for rare, medium-rare, etc., but they fell by the wayside. No matter - all was delicious anyway. Rice and veggies were extra - a bowl of lightly pickled vegetables, which included fennel and okra, was much more exciting than the plate of mostly cabbage presented for grilling. I suppose a vegetarian could make a meal of kimchi, peppery edamame and grilled vegetables, but he wouldn't be able to avoid seeing, ahem, red.
Housemade Madagascar vanilla ice cream comes with an assortment of toppings like roasted green tea syrup -I found the ground sesame and soybean to be a pleasantly nutty accompaniment.
Takashi NYC: 456 Hudson St., (212) 414-2929.
Monday, May 10, 2010
People's Pops
A most refreshing treat came to Chelsea Market three weeks ago: People's Pops. These exotic shaved ices and popsicles are made with locally sourced produce and come in flavors like plum-tarragon, spiced rhubarb and organic lemon. They have already proved so popular that the stand goes through a 75-lb. block of ice every day!
People's Pops: Chelsea Market: 75 Ninth Ave., people@peoplespops.com.
People's Pops: Chelsea Market: 75 Ninth Ave., people@peoplespops.com.
Tuesday, May 04, 2010
Sweets News
This just in: on Friday, Grom Gelato will open its third NYC store at Columbus Circle. Baby Vates and I just might head over there for some free samples!
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Baby Vates at La Maison du Chocolat
La Maison du Chocolat doesn't hold any events for infants, but the boutique does throw sophisticated chocolate parties for children aged 6-12. Kids get to make, decorate and eat a fine chocolate dessert.Baby Vates and I will have to wait about six years to take advantage of this, but we did stop into the 30 Rockefeller Center location today for a semi-sweet hot chocolate and a light "Pleyel" chocolate cake made with almond flour, which came with a little dish of whipped cream adorned with dark chocolate pearls. (The only other available cake was the Delice, a square of layered chocolate mousse.) (We found it easier to enter through the East 49th Street entrance rather than from inside Rockefeller Center, where there is a small flight of stairs leading down into the cafe.)
(La Maison Du Chocolat: Various locations.)
Friday, February 12, 2010
Free Hot Chocolate!
Because of my new arrival, I don't have much time to post these days - but I just had to pass along this information: on Valentine's Day, the Chocolate Bar (19 Eighth Ave.) is holding a Hot Chocolate Happy Hour. Buy one hot chocolate, get one free!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
